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Touring the Flavors of the Northern Central Coast

CLICK HERE to read more about the wineries in this region!

Touring the Flavors of the
Northern Central Coast

By Amber Turpin

As a wine lover, you've undoubtedly experienced many moments of epiphany when the invisible lines of time, the earth, and the sky meet in your glass. You are transported to the spot where those grapes were grown, harvested, crushed, and bottled, sipping in the craft of nature and the winemaker while the juice of their labor shifts and grows with its own spirit. This is terroir—not just a term but also a feeling—when you can see and smell the native plants growing next to a vine and then taste their essence. It is one brilliant word that essentially brings to focus reflection of place and encapsulates everything that is magic about wine, explaining nature’s mystique all in two syllables. It also illuminates the issue of locality that is gaining more and more importance in these modern times; terroir celebrates the specific flavor of our immediate locale and gives good, delicious reasons to support our own wine communities. The idea does not have to remain in the world of wine, however, as everything that grows on this planet is an indication of its unique space. When the vegetables and fruits roll out of our farmers’ market basket, an abundance of flavors emerge that highlight the diversity of edibles surrounding California’s wine regions, offering endless food and wine possibilities. From the foggy wetlands of Monterey Bay to the towering redwoods of the Santa Cruz Mountains to Santa Clara County’s hot, dry hills, the Northern Central Coast holds vast pairing potential of these area-specific gems and leads the pack in promoting sustainable appreciation of local food systems.

Monterey County
With wind whipping up from the craggy Carmel coast in the north to the mountains above the dry Salinas Valley down south, the nine AVAs that are cradled within Monterey County make it one of the largest winegrowing regions in California. Dust off any old copy of a John Steinbeck tale, and no doubt you will feel this area come alive through story, shining a light on the day-to-day reality of a time when luxury wine country was just a glimmer. What makes the vineyards flourish here is Monterey Bay’s cooling influence, the legendary fog that licks into every crevice, thus creating a very long growing season with high intensity of flavor as a result. The Bay also holds another key component, and something that Mr. Steinbeck also had a lot to say about…seafood. Relaxing on Fisherman’s Wharf with a glass of Chardonnay, a steaming bowl of chowder, and the lulling sound of seagulls overhead is a quintessential way to enjoy the bounty of this community. Yet as climate change alters weather patterns, our food systems also change, and this area is at the forefront of promoting new ways of thinking about sustainable seafood consumption. As the publishers of the popular Seafood Watch pocket guide, the Monterey Bay Aquarium, smack in the middle of historic Cannery Row, is central to spreading the word about responsible fish choices for our health and our planet, and makes it easy to still enjoy the fruits of the vine and of the sea in this special place on the Pacific.

Santa Cruz County
Getting a bit lost while touring and tasting in the Santa Cruz Mountains is not uncommon, but you will no doubt find the spectacular natural beauty along your way worth the hassle. Pull over, take a deep breath of forest air, bask in a shaft of epic sunshine bursting through the ancient branches, and feel renewed. A visit to this wine region can offer steep mountaintop views, rolling valley hills, and urban Oceanside culture all in one day, with varied flavors and surprises at each stop. Here Pinot Noir is the star, a finicky grape with delicate skin and an affinity for the special, protective ways fog hugs this entire coastal range. While the Santa Cruz Mountains are a vast volume of land, only about 1,200 acres of grapes are planted throughout, and most at very small, family-owned vineyards where low yields and high quality rein. The varied and distinct microclimates of this area also afford a plentitude of regional foods, from a long legacy of apple orchards in Watsonville and Corralitos to coastline crops of brasicas (broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage) and strawberries to summer’s sweetest mountain tomatoes. The finest and most coveted of all, however, is the hidden abundance peeking out from the dark redwood forests. Santa Cruz wild mushrooms find their way onto the best menus around, and the rainy months are time to celebrate these delicious fungal finds, even more amazing to enjoy along with a glass of equally wild and outstanding Pinot Noir.

Santa Clara County
Old California’s dusty wagon trails, hitching posts, and warm golden glow can still be felt in the hot days, cool nights, and the rich, fertile soil composition of Santa Clara Valley. Most of the wineries here are situated along Hecker Pass and the aptly named Uvas Canyon (uvas means grapes in Spanish) that lie west of the Highway 101 corridor. Some of the vineyards dotting the meandering foothills have a long heritage, dating since the Franciscan padres planted grapes in the 1700s, followed by French and Italian immigrants over a hundred years ago who introduced European varietals along with orchards that still produce memorable stone fruit today. You know winter is over when the farm stands pop up along the curvy country roads, cheerful signs and baskets overflowing with bright apricots, plums, and cherries, perfect spontaneous additions to the wine tourer’s picnic. But the flavor and aroma of something other than fabulous Cabernet Sauvignon is really what has put this place on the map, bringing people near and far to taste what has made Gilroy the “Garlic Capital of the World.”  The “stinking rose” is the focus of international attention and fame, luring you in from miles away as if someone was cooking a special meal and you’re invited.

CLICK HERE to read more about the wineries in this region!

Pacific Halibut with Aioli and Summer Salad
Courtesy of Chef Tom McNary of Carried Away Foods, a cozy take-out lunch and dinner spot serving fresh seasonal delights in Aptos, California. www.carriedawayfoods.com

Suggested Wines: Silver Mountain Chardonnay, Hahn Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir, Bargetto Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Grigio

For Salad:
1½ lbs fingerling potatoes
¾ lb fresh shelling beans such as cranberry, flageolet, or cannellini
6 oz Blue Lake beans or 4 oz haricots verts
6 4-oz Pacific halibut fillets
2 lb heirloom tomatoes, cut into wedges or 1 basket cherry tomatoes
1/3 lb mesclun mix
2 Tbsp picked parsley leaves

For Aioli:
2 garlic cloves
1 cup mayonnaise, preferably homemade
1 Tbsp lemon juice
Salt and pepper

For Dressing:
2 Tbsp Dijon mustard
2 Tbsp red wine vinegar
2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper

To prepare salad ingredients:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly rub potatoes with salt, pepper, and olive oil. Place in baking dish and cover with foil. Roast until tender, about 45 minutes. Let cool and then quarter lengthwise. Placed shelled beans into a pot. Cover with water and bring to boil. Simmer on low until tender, about 20 to 25 minutes. Strain out water. Bring another pot of water to boil. Add salt and green beans and cook until crisp-tender, about three to five minutes. Grill or pan-sear halibut to desired doneness.

Prepare Aioli:
Pound garlic to a paste with some salt in a mortar and pestle. In bowl, stir together garlic, mayonnaise, lemon juice, and pepper.

Prepare Dressing:
Whisk together first three dressing ingredients. Slowly drizzle in olive oil and emulsify with whisk. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Assemble Salad:
Toss salad greens with dressing and place on serving dish. Place halibut on greens and surround with beans, potatoes, and tomatoes. Drizzle more dressing over everything if desired. Serve aioli on side. Garnish with parsley leaves.

 
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