It is impossible to think of Oregon wine without thinking of Oregon Pinot Noir. The state’s incredibly diverse growing regions— from the warmer climates and plentiful soil types found in the southern part of the state, to the cooler climates and unique soils found to the north—have it all. Although the tremendous variety of soils and climates allows Oregon vintners to produce many varietals, from Cabernet Sauvignon to Riesling, it is the Pinot Noir grape with its abundant nuances in flavor and aromas that truly showcases our state’s diverse terroir.
As an Oregon chef who specializes in food and wine pairing, Oregon Pinot is my dream wine. Pinots can range from feminine, lean, layered wines to rich, full-bodied, masculine, fruit-forward, almost Syrah-like wines. Creating original recipes for a six course wine-paired dinner featuring all Pinot Noir allows me to create as diverse a menu as you can imagine.
My Oregon Pinot-paired dinner starts with a Pinot Rosé. Misty Oaks Vineyard, located in the Umpqua Valley, boasts many quality wines, among them Pinot Noir. The 2011 Midnight Sun Pinot Noir Rosé, unlike the Rosés of the past, is fermented dry. Located in the southern part of the state, the vineyard has varying elevations and wind patterns, but overall, it is warmer than vineyards to the north. This Rosé, with flavors of Mandarin orange and strawberry, has a delightfully creamy texture. Excellent acidity makes it a perfect pairing for my Salmon Cake Salad with Dijon Mustard Vinaigrette.
The Hyland Estates 2011 Coury Clone Pinot is from Pinot planted in Jory soil along a south-facing bench with elevations ranging from 600 to 800 feet in the foothills of the Coastal Range of the McMinnville AVA. This site benefits from cooler temperatures in the summer and warmer temperatures in the winter. These conditions encourage a Pinot with easy tannins, allowing the spice and soft fruit to come through. The proper acidity allows it to marry well with my Strawberry Tomato Compote served with Nut Crusted Salmon.
Wild mushrooms abound in Oregon and there is no better pairing with mushrooms than Pinot. Cathedral Ridge Winery in Hood River, Oregon, located in the Columbia River Gorge, deals with as diverse a growing region as it gets in the Pacific Northwest. In the west you find climates cooled with moisture from the ocean. In the east, it is a hot, dry desert producing fruit-forward wines. The 2011 Bangsund Pinot Noir comes from a vineyard providing warmer growing conditions, producing a Pinot with deep flavors of cherry, truffles, spice, and thyme. The earthiness of this Pinot makes it a spot-on pairing for Cream of Wild Mushroom Soup with Truffle Oil Drizzle.
Le Cadeau Vineyard, located in the Chehalem Mountains, grows and produces Pinot Noir exclusively. The 2009 Cote Est. Pinot Noir is sourced from fruit that is grown on an eastern slope where the fruit is protected from hot afternoon sun. This sun protection promotes Pinots with meaningful acidity and layered flavor profiles. The raspberry aromas with bright cherry and sassafras on the tongue begs for Roasted Chicken with Rosemary Lemon Gravy. The simplicity of the dish allows the depth of this complex Pinot to be the star.
ROCO Winery, also located in the Chehalem Mountain AVA of the Willamette Valley, has a pair of Pinots that truly illustrate the uniqueness and diversity found in Oregon Vineyards. The fruit in the 2011 ROCO Marsh Estate Pinot and the 2011 ROCO Clawson Creek Pinot are grown in similar soils and elevation, and the vineyards even are located next to each other. The fruit from the two vineyards are treated the same during the winemaking process, yet two remarkably different wines are realized. The Pinot from the Marsh Estate is bright red cherry fruit and rich Arabian spices, while the Clawson Creek grapes show intense, dark fruit and more expressive tannins. The 2011 Clawson Creek Pinot stands up beautifully to the fatty richness of a grilled rib eye steak. Yes, a full-bodied Pinot can be the perfect pairing for beef, and this Pinot is an excellent choice for my Grilled Rib Eye Steak with a Sage Browned Butter Sauce.
Finally, no wine-paired dinner would be complete without dessert. I cannot think of a more interesting dessert wine than Pinot Noir Port. Van Duzer Vineyards, located in Dallas, Oregon, sees cool Pacific breezes flow through the vineyards. Pinot Noir thrives in these cool-weather growing conditions, which support layered, complex Pinots. Van Duzer’s Pinot Noir–based Port offers flavors of black cherry, mulberry, and nutmeg, making it a decadent match for Chocolate Browned Butter Pie. When it comes to Pinot Noir, being a chef in Oregon is like a kid in a candy store. Or I should say, like being a Pinot lover in a Pinot lover’s paradise.
Umpaqua Valley chef Diane Clerihue owns the catering company, Delish by Diane, and is a contributing writer for food and wine publications. See delishbydiane.com for the recipes she metions here.