There’s a very good reason Brutocao Cellars makes such a wide variety of wines. For two generations, the family-owned business didn’t make wine at all. They were grape growers, selling grapes of amazing quality in Mendocino County to other wineries as far away as the Napa Valley. It wasn’t until the early 1980s, when production exceeded demand, that they could make a little of their own wine. It tasted marvelous.
The third generation, represented by brothers Len, Steve, and David Brutocao, had all gone in different directions as young adults. They returned to Hopland in the ’90s to expand the family business and produce wine together. Inspired by the family’s 450 acres of prolific vineyard property divided among several locations in Mendocino County, they started with Italian varietals reminiscent of their heritage, along with many Bordeaux varieties. When they hired native Hopland winemaker Hoss Milone away from a distinguished Sonoma County winery in 2009, things just got better.
Hoss, who was thrilled to have so many top-quality Mendocino estate grapes to work with, gladly continues the legacy of creating Italian blends. One, Quadriga—a blend of Sangiovese, Primitivo, Barbera, and Dolcetto—is aptly named for a Roman chariot drawn by four horses. The Brutocaos swear this food-friendly blend improves with every year. It certainly gets more popular. In fact, the winery recently planted 28 additional acres to meet demand and still have enough to bottle each as a single varietal. Brutocao is also known for its Zinfandel—both the California and Italian variety, Primitivo. There’s even a second label, Bliss, which features a portfolio of everyday wines.
Needless to say, the list of intriguing wines is very long in the Brutocaos’ two tasting rooms. Visitors to the Hopland tasting room can easily follow their tasting with anything from a gourmet pizza made in a wood-fired oven to fresh pasta next door at Brutocao’s Crushed Grape Grille. And afterward, a friendly game of bocce ball is warmly recommended.
Turning great grapes into wine has become a three-generation tradition at Brutocao Cellars.